Wednesday, 31 December 2014

Von der Fels 2009 - second and final bottle

Originally I had two bottles of this wine. The first one was opened in October 2010. Now over four years later ...

Weingut Keller, Riesling trocken "von der Fels" 2009, Rheinhessen
Pale gold in appearance, with a slightly candied glaze of citrus, stone fruit, beeswax hints and a touch of honey on the nose. Certainly, some initial signs of maturity are detectable. Medium-bodied on palate, with a waxy glaze you could refer to it as "Schmelz" in German along with dried herbs and a certain innate sweetness within what is essentially a dry-tasting construct; not fruit as such, but more a caramel-like sensation with some mealy notes. The wine has evolved over the last few years. The 2009 vintage was pretty ripe. Nevertheless, the amount of liveliness in this Riesling is commendable. Having said this, the acidity has bound itself somewhat into these savoury elements and is therefore very well integrated. A finely structured and complex wine with a lingering finish.

Tuesday, 9 December 2014


Here are two quite different wines that got the juices flowing in their own unique ways.

Weingut Carl Loewen, Riesling Alte Reben 2013, Mosel
Pale straw in appearance. Reticent at first on the nose, but gradually evolving into grapefruit scents with suggestions of red berry, sweetish spice, stone fruit and ethereal herbs. Spice on the palate, with a light to medium body and warm undertones. Very juicy and succulent. The acidity is perfectly integrated, generating a silky feel in the mouth. Reddish berry hints again (mainly raspberry). Medium finish. With its slightly off-dry taste profile, this reminds me of Clemens Busch's "Vom roten Schiefer" another Mosel Riesling that I've enjoyed over the past year on account of its slightly creamy, "reddish", mouthwatering personality with that very subtle hint of sweet fruit lifting the wine onto another plane.

Weingut Egon Schmitt, Lagrein trocken 2009, Pfalz
Very opaque purple/garnet with a velvety rim. Dark, spicy berry aromas with a red fruit underlay. There is also a distinct stemminess that lends an interestingly sappy and enticing element, as well as pencil lead shavings and floral notes. Fresh and slightly spicy on the palate, with red and black fruit and a lingering finish. Last tasted in spring 2012. The ensuing couple of years have done this serious but highly drinkable wine a world of good. The tannins have loosened since last showing and are more integrated with the other elements (fruit, acidity, alcohol, body). A Lagrein that seems quite ready for drinking now but should retain its brilliantly sappy personality for a good few years to come.