Admit it, we're all suckers for rave reviews. Given the favourable score the following wine garnered in this year's Eichelmann, coupled with its price (under 7 euros), I was sure I had nothing to lose in ordering a few bottles. So far, it hasn't let me down.
Weingut Egon Schmitt, Dürkheimer Hochbenn Riesling trocken 2011, Pfalz, Germany
The nose is very much of the yellow-fruit variety and very attractive at that. There is an immediate and distinct likeness to mirabelle plums. A whole basket of them. Ripe apricot and some peach also make an appearance. Peachier on the palate with the obligatory citrus kick to keep things in shape. Yet what stands out are the chalky notes that act in lieu of any fruit. They make what is a dry-as-a-bone Riesling taste improbably juicy and fun - without any of the mango, papaya or multi-vitamin juice concentrate you might associate with a "fun" Riesling. And while it doesn't plunge the minerally depths, this is also a Riesling with complexity and style.
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